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The 635/636 board is the standard board shipped with most Apollo gate operators at this time.  The 635 is the single version for the Apollo 1500 swing operator and the Apollo 7000 slide operator. The 636 is the dual board for use with the Apollo 1600 dual swing operator. These boards are easily distinguished by the number of Molex connectors at the bottom of the board.  The 635 will have ~master" and an emergency bypass" Molex connectors, while the 636 board will have "master", "slave" and ?emergency bypass" connectors. If your operator has the 835/836 board, refer to the instructions for that board for adjusting the drop switches and pot adjustments. When trouble-shooting an Apollo gate operator, here are some basics to start with?


1  BASICS: Start by disconnecting everything from the system. Isolate the circuit board, actuator and battery. Nothing else should be connected to the system. (not even the push-button on the side of the box.


2. DIP SWITCHES: Check to make sure the dip-switches are set correctly. For now let's put them back in their factory default positions. For the 635/636 boards we will want #'s 1,3,7, and 8 on and everything else off (open). Except in very special circumstances, #'s 4,5, and 9 should never be on. (Depending on the desires of the customer the settings of these switches may need to be reset. Make a note of the settings before changing or consult the installation manual for setting.)


3. ADJUSTMENTS: Turn the auto reverse sensitivity fully clockwise. If the board has a run timer adjustment, turn it fully clockwise. Also turn the close timer fully counter clockwise. The changes to these adjustments are necessary for testing purposes and may be changed as needed later. Refer to the installation manual for setting these adjustments.)


4 DUAL SYSTEMS: On dual systems only plug one of the actuators in at a time. Test that actuator on both sides of the board ("master" and "slave"). Then test the other actuator. A problem with the actuator will follow that particular actuator no matter which side of the board it is plugged in. The board will probably work fine with the other actuator. A problem with the board will follow the side of the board being used no matter which actuator is plugged in. 95% of problems with dual operators is with the "slave" side of the operator. This is usually caused by faulty wiring across the drive or by a bad splice in the cable.


5. ACTIVATION: Attempt to activate the system by shorting terminal "INP" to "GND". The gate should activate and run a complete cycle. Cycle the gate back and forth several times making sure the gate closes and opens properly. If the gate closes too far it will current sense and re-open about 1 second after hitting the close stop If the gate opens to far it will not auto close. Attempt to adjust the limit switches of the actuator it the gate does not perform properly. When running only one actuator of a dual system the operator will not "auto close". Dual operators only "auto close" if both actuators open and contact the open limit switches.


6. LIMIT SWITCHES: If the gate will not activate or the limits will not activator or the limits will not adjust properly then perform the following checks. The retract limit (normally the open limit) is controlled by the orange and green wires. When the gate is on its open limit there should be a short between these two wires. If not, adjust the limit accordingly and check the wires themselves for damage. The extend limit (normally the close limit) is controlled by the white and green wires When the gate is in the closed position there should be a short between these two wires. Again, if this is not the case, adjust the limit and inspect the wires for damage. Often times the gate will not run in either direction because both limits are shorted (engaged) at the same time and will not allow it to move. If this is the case, again adjust the limits accordingly arid inspect for wiring damage.


7. HOT WIRING: If the actuator(s) still refuse to move at this point, try the following: Test the motors and mechanics of the actuator by putting 12 volt power directly to the motors. This may be done by plugging the actuator into the "emergency bypass" connector of the board (this will retract the operator only). Alternately power can also be connected directly to the motor wires. This is done by connecting two wires from the positive and negative of the battery and touching them to the red and black motor wires of the Molex connector from the actuator. (NOT THE RED AND BLACK GOING BACK TO THE BATTERY!) When 12+ is put to the red motor wire and 12- to the black motor wire - the actuator should extend. When 12+ is put to the black motor wire and 12- is put to the red motor wire - the actuator should retract. If the actuator does not attempt to move there could be a broken wire to the motor, or the motor itself could be bad. If there is a large spark when the wires are touched to the motor wires, there is a short in the wires in the wires or in the motor itself. Remember that the actuator will not stop on its limits when you are "hot wiring" or using the "emergency bypass". You have to stop it by removing power or disconnecting from the bypass Molex.


            At this point the operator should be working correctly in its most basic form - or ? it should be obvious if the problem is in the board or the actuator. If the operator is working properly at this point - start re-connecting the optional equipment one device at a time. Test the operator after each device is connected to make sure it is still working properly. If a device is connected and the operator quits working, the problem is with the last device connected.  Trouble-shoot that device. Something as simple as the push-button on the side of the box being shorted can and will cause the entire system to malfunction intermittently or not work at all. Usually wireless options are not to blame for a system failure since they are not tied directly to the operator.


Should the actuator fail to perform correctly, here are some quick tips to try:

1. With a voltmeter, test for continuity between the GREEN wire and the WHITE wire at the plug. If
the actuator is in its EXTENDED position, this circuit should be closed (continuity). If the actuator is
in other than the extended position this circuit should be open (no continuity).

2. Again using your voltmeter, test for continuity between the GREEN wire and the ORANGE wire at the
plug. If the actuator is in its RETRACTED position, this circuit should be closed (continuity). If the
actuator is in other than the RETRACTED position, this circuit should tie open (no continuity).

NOTE: At any one time, only one limit circuit should have continuity. If both circuits do have continuity,
one or both limits should be adjusted before the board will be able to activate the actuator.

After it is determined that at least one of the limits is OPEN, but the actuator still will not respond to
activations, the actuator may be "hot-wired" to test the motor and screw assembly.

3. Unplug the cord of the actuator from the circuit board. In the plug are RED and BLACK wires from
the battery, as well as going, to the motor of the actuator. The battery wires may be shorted to the motor
wires in order to run the actuator in and out as follows:

a. To retract the actuator, short the battery RED to the motor BLACK and short the battery BLACK to
the motor RED.

b. To extend the actuator, short the battery RED to the motor RED and short the battery BLACK to the
motor BLACK.

NOTE: DO NOT SHORT BATTERY BLACK TO BATTERY RED! This is a direct short and will be very bad ... possibly
the end of the world...

When "hot wiring" the motor, paper clips work great to short the wires together, just make sure that they
do not touch each other.

Be careful when "hot wiring" the actuator. It will not stop with the limits. The actuator will continue to
run in or out to the full extent of its mechanical ability. You must disconnect power from the motor for
it to stop.



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Revised: September 06, 2010 .
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